John Baptista Porta and seventeenth-century beauty

So, beauty regimes and cosmetics are the pursuits of the modern era, right? Wrong. In fact, the routines that women undertake today to wear make-up, dye their hair and wax their legs are not a million miles away from those of our seventeenth-century sisters (and probably brothers, too!). In his 1658 work Natural Magick, John Baptista Porta set down 'the riches and delights of the Natural Sciences', including a chapter entitled 'Of Beautifying Women'. In it, he presents a plethora of what can only be described as beauty tips and techniques. They range in topics from the removal of unwanted hair, to how to make the face desirably white and soft. Granted we can not be sure how many of these recipes were used, and indeed how many women used them, but what we can be sure of is that the detail with which Porta relates these passages must mean that there was demand for literature of this type, especially since it is included in a work that also has chapters on 'the Production of new Plants' and 'Perfuming'.

Below I have transcribed three of my favourite excerpts from the work. Whilst I'm not entirely convinced by the effectiveness of all the recipes(!), I think they give a wonderful insight into a historic culture that, though obviously fascinating in its own right, is also so similar in its concerns to the beauty culture of our own age.

'To make the Hair yellow:

Draw Oyl from Honey by the Art of Distillation, as we shall shew: First, there will come forth a clear VVater, then a Saffron-colour, then a Gold-colour: use this to anoynt the Hair with a Spunge; but let it touch the Skin: for it will dye it Saffron-colour, and it is not easily washed off. This is the principal above others, because the Tincture will last many dayes: and it will dye Gray-Hairs, which few others will. Or make a Lye of Oak-Ashes, put in the quantity of a Bean of Rhubarb, as much Tobacco, a handful of Barley-Straw and Foeny-Graec, Shells of Oranges, the Raspings of Guaiacum, a good deal of wilde Saffron and Liquorish: put all these in an Earthen-pot, and boyl them, till the water sink three fingers: the Hairs will be washt excellently with this. Hold them in the Sun, then cast Brimstone on the Coals and fume the Hairs; and whilst it burns, receive the smoke with a little Tunnel at the bottom, and cover your Head all over with a cloth, that the smoke flie not away' (p. 234).

'That hair should never grow again:

In which business I have taken great pains; and tried many things that I found to be false; First, foment the part with hot water, and pull out the Hairs one by one with womens nippers: then dissolve Salt-Peter in water, and anoynt the holes where the Hairs grew. It will be better done with Oyl of Brimstone, or of Vitriol: and so they will never grow again; or if they do, after one yeer, they will be very soft: do then the same again, and the parts will be bare alwayes. So I have made womens Fore-heads longer, and have taken off Hair from parts hotter than the rest' (pp. 236-37).

'To dye the Eye-brows:

Take Labdanum, and heat it with Wine, and mingle Oyl of Myrtles with it, and make a very thick Oyntment: or infuse in Oyl the black Leaves of the Myrtle-Tree, with a double quantity of Galls bruised, and use that. I use this. Galls are fried in Oyl, and they are ground with a little Salt-Ammoniac; and then mingled with Vinegar, wherein the Pills of the Mulberry and Bramble have been boyled: with these anoynt the Eyebrows, and let it abide on all night; then wash it off with water' (p. 238).

1. John Baptista Porta, Natural Magick (London: 1658), in EEBO.

© Jenna Townend 2013